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Routes in Crater Crag of North Quarry

Crater Cat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Debhedral TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Doug's Variation T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fragile X TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gig, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Golden Arete S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Misty S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mountain Lion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rancid S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sending Choss TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sweet T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 424 total, 6/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a variation off Rancid that veers right after clipping the fourth bolt. Doug Redosh looked at it the last time we were up there wondering if it would go. It does, and it's better than it looks from below.

Climb up along Rancid's 1st half (crux). Angle up along a nice crack, making one awkward move. Finish up pulling on the top of the wall with your left hand and on a funky, big block with your right. Move left to anchor off the pole and a orange Alien/#0.75-sized piece.

Obviously, since this was fairly clean, this could have been climbed by someone else. If it is your route, let me know and we'll fix the name.

Location

Start as for Rancid, and move right at half height.

Protection

4 bolts, cams green Alien to #1 Camalot or wires. Yellow, orange, or red Alien or #0.75 Camalot, the pole, and 48" slings for your anchor.

Photos

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