Type: TR, 20 ft
FA: a lizard
Page Views: 274 total · 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is a TR route that involves some adventure, so if you don't like adventure, don't climb this. The TR directionals help to try to keep your rope off the sharp boulder, but the cracks aren't the most solid.

To the right of The Gig by ~15 feet is a dihedral of sorts. It sort of beckons to those who have minds that aren't quite right. The start involves a pull-down, not out technique on a decent-sized hollow flake. This one could hurt, so be careful. The crux involves a funky crack, undercling combination with a small, positive left foot and hiking your right up high enough to slap for the top. Mortals will hand traverse right far enough to get a foothold to assist with the mantle. Note, the sloping ledge above is full of gravel...of which the worst on the edge was cleared.

FWIW, this route won't tolerate too many ascents and will favor the less height-challenged.

For the explorer types, this may continue above to double its length.

Location

This is right of The Gig by ~15 feet and ascends a dihedral of sorts.

Protection

Climb The Gig to the right as a warmup. Top out above the anchor bolts. Carefully traverse the rubble strewn ledge. About 10 feet right is a rotten crack that will take an orange Alien that keeps your rope off that sharp rock...hopefully. Then, move right another 10 feet where you can get a red Alien, blue Alien, and an okay #6 BD in a crack. 48" slings will help with these pieces.

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