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Bat Cave

V5, Boulder,  Avg: 2.3 from 8 votes
FA: Ethan Peck, Benny, Chris Duca 2003
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Smugglers' Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Bat Cave/ Penumbra Area
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Description

Start on the lowest part of the foot wide shelf. Figure out where to put your right foot to get off the ground and work your way left using heel hook and through a careful hand match till you reach a pretty good left hand pinch. From her figure out some weird positioning and go for the notch at the lip. Slopey top out right.
( If you have the NE Bouldering guide i believe this lists as Army of Ants V2. V2 this is not unless there is something I'm majorly overlooking, or if you use the cheater block next to the start. I'm tossed up on what to give it for a grade so take it with a grain of salt. This is my best guess based on a few similarly graded routes I've done in the notch, combined with the little info I've been able to dig up. If you have better info like Name, grade, FA let me know. I just wanted to post it up since its rad.)

Location

If you standing directly in front of Biscuit look up left you cannot miss it.

Protection

pad or two and a spotter willing to bear hug if you blow the toss to the notch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
  V4
[Hide Comment] Ethan Peck, Benny and I FA'ed this problem back in 2003, I think (though it may have been done prior to us without being documented). I believe we called it "The Bat Cave" due to its proximity to the spooky little cave immediately to the left with bats living in it. Jul 5, 2012
Read Januskiewiecz
Taos, NM
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the info Chris.How does the grade seem from what you remember just out of curiosity? Jul 6, 2012
Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
  V4
[Hide Comment] Hey Read--

Though I haven't climbed it in several years, I do believe you are spot on with the grade. The arĂȘte immediately to the right that swings around to the far right is dubbed "the batwing", and I believe it was around V2/3.

-Chris Jul 8, 2012
Read Januskiewiecz
Taos, NM
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] Cool. I'll have to give the batwing a whirl as well then. Thanks for the info. Also we should meet up and try to climb sometime since last time fell through I'd be stoked to find out some more info about the area and especially the roped climbing since i've had little luck finding partners other than to boulder. Jul 8, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
[Hide Comment] Unless I'm missing something beta wise, I find it difficult to call this anything easier than v5. In my opinion, stiff v5. The move to the lip is quite difficult for me. I can imagine that if you were taller or in possession of some wizard beta that it might feel easier. For me, it felt like the crux.

Cool little climb. Unfortunately a little squeezed. But, that's the Notch! Oct 5, 2013