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Routes in Chopping Block

A Sioux Named Boy S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Baba Cool S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chopping Block T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Glimpse Into Paradise V7 7A+
Great Chimney AKA The Great Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Meat is Murder S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twelve White Sticks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Valdez Overhang S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Herb and Jan Conn 9/30/57
Page Views: 571 total · 8/month
Shared By: Wilson On The Drums on Jul 4, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

From the water groove described in the location of the route, climb up the good holds (maybe 5.4) and summit onto the blunt arete that makes up the climb of Chopping Block. Now just keep your cool and follow the arete to the top. This route is listed as 5.3 in The Adventure Climbs of Herb and Jann Conn and I would have to agree (vs the 5.2 rating in Vernon Phinney's guide). Jann is quoted as saying it's a strong friction climb that had them desperately hoping for some protection along the way. I didn't see any and besides once you get going it's better just to keep moving. Once you reach the anchors for Going to Harlem you can either rappel here or make a very fun, yet super dicey step/jump across (over The Great Dihedral) to obtain the same summit as Baba Cool and Meat is Murder. You can rappel here is well. I would highly recommend a rappel vs a down climb.

Location

To find the route, locate and go to either Baba Cool or Meat is Murder. Then walk into the corridor that splits Chopping Block and Cleaver. Follow this as it narrows and tends to drop a little each step of the way. You'll come to a point where there seems to be a pit, don't fall in here, traverse around it for maybe 5 feet and look to your left (north). There should be a well defined water groove going up the rock, this is where I started the route.

Protection

No protection, must solo. Multiple anchors located at top (Going To Harlem With A Pistol In My Jeans, Meat is Murder).

Photos

Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
;) Feb 21, 2015
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
 
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
 
do this route! this and sultan's tower! Feb 20, 2015

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