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The Sleeper

V5, Boulder, 13 ft (4 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 27 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > American Fork C… > House Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Sit down start on the arete. Climb the left side of the arete. One of the better boulder problems on House Boulder. Both variations share the same sit start, which is grabbing a good pinch (used to be a jug years ago) with your left hand and a flat sloping edge with your right.

By AF standards the left variation is a "soft" V5 - the crux is throwing up and far left for this positive yet small sloping knob. The right variation felt a tad easier so I labeled it as a V4/5. The arete is off - if it's on, then V3. As always, feedback is welcome so that I posted the correct beta!

Location

Sit start on the southeast arete - then out to the face - of House Boulder. Use the tree next to Speedball to shimmy down.

Protection

Crash Pads, Spotters

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The Sleeper V5
[Hide Photo] The Sleeper V5

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Brad King
Provo
  V5
[Hide Comment] I love this climb! This is my favorite problem on the House Boulder. It is "soft" compared to tiptoe and the rest of the sandbagged problems on the boulder, but I think it holds strong at V5. Aug 15, 2019