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Routes in Necromancer Needle

Black Rabbit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Silver Threads T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Vernon & Kodas
Page Views: 633 total, 10/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jul 2, 2012
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A technical thin seam and flaring tips-to-finger crack. A fine single-pitch route at the Needles.

Start by stemming up the shallow LF dihedral, protected with thin nuts. Pull over the bulge and into the flared & insecure finger crack above. Trust the shallow toe jams and work your way to the top. This feels like a harder version of Dave's Deviation 5.9 at Tahquitz Rock.

Location

On the upper west face of the Necromancer, starting at a healthy oak tree. To access the base, scramble up the 3rd class gully between the Witch and the Necromancer (near the start for Phosphorescent Flow, Witch Doctor). Alternatively, one may rappel the route after climbing Silver Threads 5.10 on the Necromancer.

Protection

#4-8 BD stoppers, double cams from #0 TCU to 0.5 Camalot. A single 0.75 and 1 Camalot. 2 bolt rap anchor.

Photos

ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.10a
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.10a
This is another one of those Needles routes that gets no traffic and is overshadowed by all the classics nearby. This route would be considered excellent pretty much anywhere. I found gear as big as a #2 BD C4, but the gear is mostly thin. From the start it looks like there's no gear, but it's all there. I cleaned the crack out with my nut tool on rappel for the next climbers that try it. Get on it! May 19, 2014