[Hide Comment] has since been retro bolted, and is a very fun climb. May 7, 2013

[Hide Comment] This route is very good, and should not be missed by 5.7 climbers. Fun, safe, a good intro to sport climbing. May 14, 2013

[Hide Comment] Mystery Achievement is no longer a Mystery or an Achievement. May 19, 2013

[Hide Comment] Bomber bolts have been recently added. THIS IS NOT AN "R" RATED CLIMB ANYMORE! Jugs the whole way up including over the roof (very fun move) that make this feel like a gym climb. Great Anchors at top. One of my favorites at the City! Jun 9, 2013

[Hide Comment] A 70 meter rope is needed for a single rope rappel, or lowering. Still...tie knots in the rope ends! Jun 25, 2013

[Hide Comment] Well protected (maybe too many) with bolts now make this climb a City of Rocks classic at its grade. A great route to learn to lead as well since the bolts are so close together. Sep 6, 2013

[Hide Comment] FUN!!!!! Morning Sun. Can use a 60m if you down climb the ramp. Sep 29, 2013

[Hide Comment] As fun as it gets for 5.7! Great jugs and an awesome roof pull at the top. Apr 27, 2014

[Hide Comment] Long and fun! Well protected for a beginning leader once the first bolt is clipped. However, it does take a 5.6/5.7 move to get to the first bolt and this is about 25ft above the ground. Beginning leaders may think about this. Jul 26, 2014

[Hide Comment] Decent variation that goes up the enticing fingercrack (gear) to the left of the first bolt, joining up with the bolt line above the prominent rail at 1/3 height. Nov 10, 2014

[Hide Comment] Climbed this 2015, with and without clipping bolts. Fun climb, but definitely memorable when you lead it on gear. bring extra cams or weighty gear to keep your slings from popping off the knobs. Jan 4, 2017

[Hide Comment] There is truth in both Bingham's and RKM's comments. This was a risky lead, though not technically difficult, because the pro was mostly slings on sloping horns - some pretty good, many kind of sketch. I had never seen anyone on it since I put it up - hence the decision to retrobolt it some thirty plus years later.

Original line did follow the crack at the bottom since that offered a place to get some pro. Thought about leaving off the first bolts because of this, but in the age of sport climbing, many carry only draws and very few carry the slings you would need to protect this climb as it was originally protected.

Intent with the retrobolting was to make the climb safe for grade level. Too many bolts now? Sort of agree with this, but suggest you skip the clip if you don't need the bolt. It was too good a route to have no one climb it due to fears about the pro. Oct 2, 2017

[Hide Comment] Holy Mackerel!!! This is my new favorite route at the city. And I don't even like sport climbs. This route is absolutely, positively awesome. The wacos remind me of the super positive holds on a 5.8 at the climbing gym. You know when they get a brand new box of super sticky textured holds and build and entire route from them? Every hold has an incut edge, like grabbing a dinner plate that is standing on edge. If you like sport climbs, I think this is better than Too Much Fun. I did place a cam before the first bolt, and another before the last bolt...but only because I'm an old chicken. The last move to the anchor was challenging for my niece, who is short. I'd recommend bringing a long sling or two in case you are a short leader and have to aid the bulge. Freaking awesome route! Jul 6, 2018

[Hide Comment] Crazy patina plates define this route. Amazing! Maybe not quite as good as Too Much Fun, but certainly one of the best single pitch 5.7s around May 18, 2020

[Hide Comment] PHENOMENAL CLIMB, favorite 7 at the City and solid for the grade. Healthily spaced bolts - great for leaders used to "bolted to death" climbs. Crux is bulge up high.

Even though the first bolt is pretty easy to reach, it is very high. I placed two small finger sized cams (#0.2 - 0.5ish) in the obvious crack left of the first bolt, on top of the starting slab. Otherwise, blow the first move and risk a 30ft grounder! Nov 16, 2021

[Hide Comment] A 70m will let you lower, or double strand rappel....but just barely. I've seen 70s reaching the ground with a bit to spare, and 70s that were a foot or so short, so close the system! Also, at just under 5', it wasn't pretty, and was a multistage project, but I did get over the top bit. It's there, if you hunt for it. I was on top rope though, I'd not try it on lead, myself, at the grade. And thanks, Jay. RKM, I get it, you know I do, but it was Jay's call, and it's a well loved route now. As great as COR is, there's not an overabundance for us lesser beings. Sorry the park has changed for you, but it's still got a lot of climbing to be had. And, ironically, I also support leaving it mostly as is. Keep the old school heads up pay attention adventure! Nov 19, 2022

[Hide Comment] This is a great, well-bolted 5.7 climb. Though, new leaders might find the first bolt a little high off the ground. After climbing around in the fourth class trough to the left, the bolt is reached via an easy one move 5.7 mantle. The final roof is harder than 5.7 but is over quickly and well-protected on big holds. Aug 9, 2023

[Hide Comment] A .75 camalot in the vertical crack right off of the ramp protects some of those first moves before that first bolt! Oct 10, 2023

[Hide Comment] Knot the ends of your ropes on this one! 60m wouldn’t do it. 70m just makes it. 80m is comfortable. Be very picky where you belay if you are on a 70m. The comment above is spot on. Plug a 0.75 or two in a nice vertical crack before making the mantle move to the first bolt. A good spot for a newer trad leader to plug a piece of a gear before clipping bolts to the top. Oct 28, 2023

[Hide Comment] 70m and knot the ends. Placed a #1 tricam in the crack before making the mantel below 1st bolt. Possible to reach a bolt and then retrieve the one below if needed on a couple. The bolder roof/mantel at the top is a great finish! Note: it can get windy on the top of this! Apr 12, 2026