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Routes in The Shrine of Vanity

All We Like Sheep T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Apathetic Womb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gluttonous Ego T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Here We Go Again T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Friends in Crawl Spaces T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Raise Your Fist T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reap What You Sew T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Simply Complicated T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slap My Bitch Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: Alvino Pon and Kevin Martinov, 2002
Page Views: 95 total, 1/month
Shared By: Hiro Kurotsuchi on Jun 30, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin at the thin crack, up onto the slab, you'll see the first bolt at least 15' above. You can protect your start with a small cam in the horizontal crack.

For the upper sections, smaller cams and medium/large nuts can be used. You may find a place to put #1-4 C4s.

The anchor seems to be in fair condition, but it's a chain and rap hook (i.e. two bolts). The chain is not at the same height as the hook though, and the rap hook is closed too much to get much in, except perhaps 3mm cord, which doesn't help you. After rap, it takes a bit more than the usual effort to pull.

The rating is due to the crux at the second bolt, which is a difficult section of slab, only a few slabby moves to get past. If you go pretty far right, you can avoid it to make this entirely a 5.8 route, but the swing on that 2nd bolt would be wicked if you fell.

It is a pretty fun run to the top from there.

Location

This is the second from left (see beta photo), look for the thin crack to the ground and bolts on first large slab above you. The bolted anchor at the top is suitable for rappel, it's pretty unequal for TR or lowering.

Protection

Four draws for the bolts, standard rack. Gear to setup an equalized anchor on two bolts at the top if you plan to lower and leave gear, or TR - see description of anchor.

Photos

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