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Full Tilt
5.11,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: Dale Bard 1977
California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> Black Wall
> 3. Black Wall - Right
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures
Details
Mind nesting raptors that raise young on the Black Wall some years. If you sight a peregrine, contact Dan Joannes, staff biology guy for the Truckee Donner Land Trust at Daniel@tdlandtrust.org
Description
Walk up the approach ramp up and right past "Slipstream" several hundred feed. Keep going up and right until a brushy ledge system is reached. Go right until you find yourself under a 60' white detached tooth. The right side is "Full Tilt" and features a hard offwidth roof maybe 12 feet of the ground. The roof leads into an easier 5.8 dihedral. This climb is easy to toprope by chimneying the left side of the tooth, "Inside Out", and then climbing into and out the cave behind the tooth (5.6). Toprope/descend off chain anchors. A great location on Black Wall with views of Donner. The ratings in guidebooks are always off on this climb because it never gets a send. It is full on hard 11 OW roof.
Protection
Cams 2"-5.5".
![Mark Hudon on "Full Tilt", 5.11a, 1979.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.]()
[Hide Photo] Mark Hudon on "Full Tilt", 5.11a, 1979. Photo by Blitzo.
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Truckee, CA