Black Death (Open Project)
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Blue Sky Bluff
|Bad Seed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Black Death (Open Project) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Blue Skies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Flying Oehlers, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Free Flying is Neither S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Going In S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Low Pull S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Wall Strike S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|FA:||TBD Equipped by Mike Bond|
|Page Views:||587 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||dnoB ekiM on Jun 29, 2012|
Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details
Much of this area is in the Mount Charleston Wilderness Area, learn which crags are within our outside of it before you go. See the BLM Fact Sheet blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… for a good overview of what it protects and what that limits, and the Forest Service page fs.usda.gov/detailfull/htnf… for other information.
DescriptionThe first route right of the unbolted scooped/overhanging area. This route might need more cleaning in the crack/ramp area. Beware the black death guano.
Not a very consistent route. Basically it is 5.10+ climbing to a 3-4 move V6/7? to 5.9 climbing.
Crux is an undercling above ramp to a nasty upside down sidepull or gaston to two micro-crimps to a jug above and left of the 5th bolt. Vicious!
LocationJust right of the unbolted overhanging area. There is a crack/ramp area after the 2nd bolt.
Protection6 stainless bolts to double mussy anchor.
This route was bolted solely for the purpose of allowing for the attempted first ascent, and the attempted first ascent information is posted here solely to document the history of the first ascent. No person should read this posting with the assumption that this route or the fixed gear left behind is safe in any way or otherwise appropriate to allow for safe subsequent ascents. Climbing is dangerous and should only be done with the appropriate training and risk management practices that include providing for the climbers own safety. Attempting to climb this route as described above or by any other means or methods could result in injury or death.