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Bedside Manner
5.9,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3 from 25
votes
FA: Pat McCarthy, Gavin Ferguson, 7/05
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Northern End
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Start to the left of the Salad Daze hand crack on a thin finger crack. This bouldery start requires a few physical moves before protection is available. The climb works from hands to fists to a lie back edge in the offwidth pod back to fists. The crack tapers down to .5 C4's at the top. Climb between two blocks on jugs. Stand on the left block to clip the anchors.
Bedside Manner,Salad Daze and Rodeo Crack share anchors.
Location
Just left of Salad Daze. Look for the finger start with an offwidth pod above.
Protection
.4-#4 Camalots. Emphasis on 2'3 and 3's.
![Bedside Manner climbs the left crack. Bouldery start]()
[Hide Photo] Bedside Manner climbs the left crack. Bouldery start
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Portland, OR
You can also plug a cam in at the start if you're concerned about the boulder move, though it will occupy a great finger crack. I didn't have a problem with it though. Sep 10, 2018