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The Black Wonton
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Main wall
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Black Wonton, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Celibacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Center Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Monkey, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Off Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Perfect Pint T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pit and the Pendulum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Simple and Independent Minds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13 |
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Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Tonys Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 43.66498, -72.83323 |
| FA: | Chris Magness, Mike Sturgeon 5/12 |
| Page Views: | 1,981 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | chris magness on Jun 28, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
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Description
A wild little roof problem. Short and pumpy. Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab. Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground.
Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.
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