The Black Wonton
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Chris Magness, Mike Sturgeon 5/12 |
Page Views: | 1,934 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | chris magness on Jun 28, 2012 |
Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
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Description
A wild little roof problem. Short and pumpy. Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab. Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground.
Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.
Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.
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