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Routes in Deer Leap

Black Wonton, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Bulge (AKA - The Flying Groundhog), The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Celibacy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Center Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pit and the Pendulum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple and Independent Minds T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2- PG13
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tonys Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chris Magness, Mike Sturgeon 5/12
Page Views: 911 total, 14/month
Shared By: chris magness on Jun 28, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A wild little roof problem. Short and pumpy. Start left of Bag of Tricks and right of The Easy Way on a moderate slab. Look for a short roof crack 15' off the ground.

Climb the moderate but unprotected slab to the roof crack. Place a somewhat blind cam and make a committing move into the roof. Make a big move to some hidden jugs and a pumpy stance to place gear in a left angling horizontal finger crack (crux). Follow the horizontal left to an unlikely jug. Trend up and left following cracks across easier terrain to a two bolt anchor on top of The Easy Way.

Location

The Lower Tier, between The Easy Way and Bag of tricks.

Protection

Cams. .4-2, crux takes .4 and .5. Optional 3.5 in a pod turning the roof.
We'll need a consensus grade here. I was pumped and placing the crux gear and getting it right is damn hard. Two pieces help, it's shallow!

Named for Mike's dog, Friday, who has a feature similar to the roof crack. Jun 28, 2012