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Mister Fister

5.11a, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 18 votes
FA: Jamie Coin
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Dark Side > Dark Side Wall

Description

A big, bad-ass of a climb that starts as an about-face with nice, big, bad-ass pockets on steep terrain that never, ever lets up.

You'll know when you're fist deep in the shit as a series of huge cracks throw down some punishing, yet oddly pleasurable pulls and deep fist jams. The route gets freaky when it makes you reach around to yank on some big, hard ledges that climax in some moves that might have you wishing you had experimented with some other rough fantasy.

THIS ROUTE IS AWESOME! In the end, it is a tough climb that becomes nearly devine when you figure out exactly what the beta is and can turn the rough stuff into fetishly good fun!

Location

Fourth route from the left. Shares its first three bolts with a 5.12 known as Black Magic and starts to trend left. And for Heaven's sake don't be a pud puller and go TOO far out left at the start. There is a bit of a traverse on this route down low but stay out of the crack with the chockstone in it. Don't avoid cruxes! Taste it!

Protection

10 bolts. Open Shunt Anchors. Latex, leather and lube.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mister Fister, 5.11a<br>
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(Maybe 5.10d for the well initiated)
[Hide Photo] Mister Fister, 5.11a (Maybe 5.10d for the well initiated)
Reggie gets freaky with Mister Fister, 5.11a.<br>
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Dark Side, Spearfish Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Reggie gets freaky with Mister Fister, 5.11a. Dark Side, Spearfish Canyon.
Mister Fister, 5.11a<br>
Dark Side, Spearfish Canyon.
[Hide Photo] Mister Fister, 5.11a Dark Side, Spearfish Canyon.
Big moves to big holds on overhung terrain with a chance to get freaky with it!<br>
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Mister Fister, 5.10d/5.11a
[Hide Photo] Big moves to big holds on overhung terrain with a chance to get freaky with it! Mister Fister, 5.10d/5.11a
Reggie sizing up Mister Fister, 5.11a.
[Hide Photo] Reggie sizing up Mister Fister, 5.11a.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Decent rock with fun moves down low followed by deteriorating, dirty rock up high. Moves are fun, but the rock quality kind of sucks. There were a few good jams to be found in dirty cracks. Jul 5, 2016
BBQ
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] All the superior local climbers warm up on this one. Three to four stars for sure! But I know what you mean, I was in a gym, in Boulder, just the other day, and some dust on the plastic hold at the crux ruined my send. So irritating. Jul 5, 2016
chris tregge
Beersconsin
[Hide Comment] I've been LOLing at your replies all day Brent Jul 5, 2016