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> Joe's Garage
Bullwhip days [Suggest Change]
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Joe's Garage
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Bullwhip days T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Central Scrutinizer, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Snakepeel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft |
| FA: | FA: M. Leblanc, G. Losier 1996, FFA: D. Caron, A. Dowding June 2012 |
| Page Views: | 63 total · 1/month |
| Shared By: | Dom on Jun 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Dom, Ian Lingley |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control
Details
Some of the crags in this area are on Canadian Military land. Members of UNB Rock and Ice Club need to call Range Control before going. Non-members must present themselves in person to Range Control and procure a pass. 506 422-2000 ext 3121
Description [Suggest Change]
Technical face climbing right of Astroboy Direct. Start at the rap station at the base of Astroboy direct and traverse on a horizontal crack to get to a bolted face split by more horizontal cracks. Bring small cams for the horizontal cracks. Nothing bigger than a 0.75 BD was used on the FFA. Bolted by A. Morgan.
Location [Suggest Change]
Climb Waterwalk or Trundling by Moonlight or Sparky start variation. From the ledge aim for anchor at the base of Astroboy Direct. Your belayer can belay from the other anchor (more comfy)
Protection [Suggest Change]
3 bolts+gear and Bolted anchor.
Look lower in the comments box for the exact gear I used on the FFA.
Look lower in the comments box for the exact gear I used on the FFA.
Photos
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New Brunswick Canada
clip the Astroboy direct anchor. In the first horizontal put a 0.3BD, then a 0.4 BD. Clip the bolt. In the next horizontal, slot a grey metolius, then a 0.75 BD. clip the next two bolts. Then in a long horizontal jug, place a 0.4 BD. Just after place a purple metolius in a small alcove. Finally place a 0.5 BD in a jug on the left. Medium nuts could also be used in a nice vertical crack here. Voilà! All this in 60ft of climbing! Jun 27, 2012