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Routes in Cleopatra's Needle

Cleo's Needle South-Central Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Comfort Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Northwest Side T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Southeast Arete T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,323 total, 20/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Jun 27, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This is a climb in two parts. The lower arete has very little gear ... but good gear where you step up around the overlap, and huge holds everywhere else. Once on the ledge at mid-height, walk over to the summit block. There is decent gear again for the final few moves, where you are feeling most exposed.

Location

Scramble down to the foot of Cleo's Needle, on the side facing the Lake. Step up out of the gully onto one of two or three different starting ledges.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches.

Photos

Bradley Gorsline
Pasadena, California
  5.4
Bradley Gorsline   Pasadena, California
  5.4
I felt the gear was pretty decent and the climbing very secure, mostly really small horizontal cams and the rope drag isn't too bad if you extend every piece. Dec 26, 2015
Stranger In Iowa
IA
  5.4 PG13
Stranger In Iowa   IA
  5.4 PG13
Some blind tricam/microcam placements between base and belay ledge. Rope drag is an issue if doing the entire needle in one pitch. Recommend starting at base. Jul 1, 2012