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Routes in P.C.T. Cliff

Day Hike T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Happy Trail T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Helping Hands T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moonwalk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mothers and Fathers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Old Guys with the Shakes T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
P.C.T. Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Radical Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trail Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Jun 26, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This route climbs a series of broken and horizontal cracks on the wall to the right of the PCT Crack area. In the new guidebook its described as a zigzaging crack, but its really linking horizontals from faceholds. As we climbed it we went straight up through a couple of cruxy areas and then left to the finger crack leading over the top. Its consistently steep and every move felt about 5.9. I thought it was hard for the grade and could be 10-.

Location

The route starts on positive face holds and heads into a left facing / left leaning dihedral. There are bolts on the slab about 6' back from the lip of the climb with new chains.

Protection

Good selection of nuts and cams from 00 to #3. Doubles in the finger to hand range are helpful.

Photos

The anchors to the climb have been replaced. However, they've been moved about 15 feet up and to the right. The prior anchors were severely rusted (had started to flake) and were in an obvious water streak. You can place a directional in the strata above the old anchors and walk right to the new rap anchor.

I could not countersink and patch the old bolts but will come back with a hacksaw and patch the holes at a later time. Aug 25, 2014
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
See the PCT - middle topo for location details. Aug 5, 2014
The bolts at the top of this climb are a prime example of galvanic corrosion and were obviously placed just below a water streak. I wouldn't rap off them (although I think they were new last year) and walked left to the stainless anchors at the top of helping hands.

After climbing this again I've bumped it to 3 stars. Its a unique and worthy climb. Jul 29, 2013