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Helping Hands
5.10+,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: Dan Seeliger 6/26/2012
California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Donner Summit
> PCT Cliff
> Black And Tan Wall
Description
Starting at base of PCT Crack head up to ledge on right following jugs. Follow the obvious line up and over a mantle and through the roofs above. After some sequential climbing to get into the perfect but awkward hand crack at the apex of the roof, climb into a narrow chimney. After another awkward bulge climb a chimney and the crack / featured face to the left to chains. The crux begins when moving into and around the roofs and ends once around the bulge and into the wider of the two chimnies.
The entire route is overhanging
Location
New bolts w/ chains get you down easily
Protection
Cams from .3' to 4". You could take a 6+" piece for the upper chimney, but smaller cams can be placed in a shallow crack on the left. Doubles or even triples of #2 and #3 camalots are helpful.
[Hide Photo] Dan Seeliger moving into the hand crack and around the roof on the 1st ascent.
[Hide Photo] PCT Cliff - middle
[Hide Photo] The overhanging nature of the route become obvious as Dan lowers. While he's leaning back he's not swinging.
[Hide Photo] Rope hanging from new anchors atop Helping Hands. PCT Crack in the corner on the left and Helping hands over roofs and into chimney are plainly visible.
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Truckee
Reno, NV
Reno, NV
Matt - if it was your chalk outside and to the left of the chimney I can understand how you would think that. There were three hard cruxes for me (from the first little ledge to the seat below the roof, around the roof and into the chimney, and around the bulge into the upper chimney). Each had a great rest afterward.
PCT crack was all about hanging on through the lichen/moss and wide to the chains (Enduro crux). This thing is about making hard pulls above gear to get into more secure climbing. In July I found that pushing a #6 deep in the chimney makes the upper chimney super safe and is easier/more secure than reaching out to place gear in the somewhat shallow cracks out left. Sep 3, 2013