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Routes in Galen's Crack

Galen's Crack TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Galen Rowell
Page Views: 1,815 total · 24/month
Shared By: Sean H on Jun 26, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Obvious, splitter OW. The bottom part of the climb is slightly overhanging, and goes from hands to fists (the crux).

Pulling through the fists crux, then thrutching a ways will eventually land you in more straight forward OW technique (likely left side in) about halfway up the crack, with jugs on the outside near the top.

Occasionally there are some hidden holds inside the crack as well.

Location

Can't miss it.

Protection

TR off of two bolts, though you never know if they'll be there, or chopped. Bring wide gear and long runners/rope if the bolts are not present.

Photos

Weston L
NEVADASTAN
  5.10c
Weston L   NEVADASTAN
  5.10c
A fun lead as well, well protected for wyde. Pro to 6" Sep 11, 2012
Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
Did it on TR but the starting moves to about 15 feet up are the crux. After that lots of nice in cuts in the crack and surprisingly good feet. One for my lead tick list next season. Nov 6, 2012
Phil Esra  
 
On the left end of a modest bulge east of Low Pro Dome. Took us a couple passes by car to spot it. Anchor bolts present as of 7/4/13. Harder and more technical crux than Generator Crack. Bring the biggest, fattest fists you've got. Jul 8, 2013
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
You can see the crack and the pullout across from the street in this google street view (scroll around):

goo.gl/maps/2yEh4

It was hard to find where to stop as a first timer especially with lame tourists tailgating you at 50 mph Jul 30, 2013
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10+
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.10+
Short but sweet. Great fun on toprope. For me, easier to get psyched up to solo it than lead it. Sep 23, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.11
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.11
Small fists make this an absolute thrutch-fest. Jul 24, 2014
John Hayes II
  5.10c
John Hayes II  
  5.10c
I should have led this. It would have taken gear very well. "Thrutching" includes frustrating armbars and weird leg jams.

I also enjoyed the face climb to the right. It would be rad if there was a bolt a ways above the first jug on the face climb, to make for a weird mixed lead. Jun 19, 2018

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