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Routes in Midway Area

Broken Boy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cheap Motel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Come and Get It S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Finlay Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Flash for Cash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grey Cat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leela T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middendorf's Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightshade S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Plant Meets Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pullatrain T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Richard's Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schwing Time S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sexual Basalt T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sloppy Seconds T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vancelot S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Richard Harrison/Michelle Locatelli
Page Views: 327 total · 4/month
Shared By: Xavier Wasiak on Jun 25, 2012
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Description

Start up a bomb bay chimney (not visible in beta picture) to a left diagonaling perfect hand crack that ends all too quickly in a slightly chossy right facing corner. Climb the corner up to a roof which is exited to the left and continue up to the anchor. This upper part to the roof is a little heady. The anchor, made up of two bolts, is questionable. You can use a lower anchor around the corner to the left (anchor for Nightshade), but it is a little goofy.

Location

Left side of Midway #5 area in Michelle's book.

Protection

Hand sized gear for the initial crack and then a variety of gear including larger gear for the upper part. A BD #4 and #5 would get placed.

Photos

Cameron Casey
Las Vegas
Cameron Casey   Las Vegas
The upper half of this route is pretty bad (i.e rotten rock and loose blocks) but the lower half is the most satisfying hand crack I think i've ever had the pleasure of jamming in. Apr 21, 2018

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