PRINT: Rock Climb Sleeping Beauty, Northeast Ridges and Valleys

Sleeping Beauty

5.10c, Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 7 votes
FA: Ed Esmond and Doug Allcock
Pennsylvania > Northeast Ridge… > Delaware Water… > Mt Minsi > h. High Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Falcon Closure Details

A temporary closure of Mt. Minsi within Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area (DEWA) to climbing and hiking will be in effect starting February 14, 2023 to protect nesting peregrine falcons.

The closure is: "The cliffs at Mount Minsi from Point of Gap parking lot to Arrow Island parking lot, from the west shoulder of Route 611 to the top of the ridge, in the Pennsylvania District, will be closed to rock climbing and hiking through approximately early August to prevent human disturbance to nesting peregrine falcons."

Official designated trails are not affected by this closure, meaning hikers can still use Arrow Island Trail and the Appalachian Trail. Official trails and maps are located on the park website at: nps.gov/dewa/planyourvisit/…

Closure signage will be posted near the parking areas.

Description

Climb the low angle rock passing 1 bolt to a grassy ledge. Continue on good holds past 2 bolts to the crux at bolt #3 find the incut pinch and get high feet and make another move on thin holds to reach the low angled terrain with good holds. Plug some gear (I used a .5 camalot) and continue up to the small roof with a bolt (kinda runout). Pull past the roof on the left and past 1 more bolt ending at the chains.

Location

bolted face about 20 feet from the scramble to Heroine Hypnosis.

Protection

5 bolts I felt only a .5 camalot was the only trad gear required, but moving up to the roof bolt was a little runout on easy terrain so additional pro may be warranted.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The second crux at the roof on sleeping beauty. You'll want some fingers size gear to protect the runout below and backup the bolt at the roof lip. (.5 &.4 size camalots and one long sling are fine)

The rock cairn with copperhead on it. At base of sleeping beauty

Clearly shows the line of Sleeping Beauty. Ryan just below the second crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Wolpert

5.10b

I went right at the second roof and used a great crack to layback up the roof. I thought this was a good way. I’ll have to come back and try it to the left of the bolt as the description says. Jun 29, 2021