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Routes in Solstice Celebration Wall

Barn Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crappers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flappers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shape Shifter T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solstice Celebration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Alan Bartlett & Dennis Jensen, 1987
Page Views: 54 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Jun 25, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details

Description

P1) Starts at the toe of the buttress, and left of the route "Solstice Celebration". Climb up a right-leaning crack with some loose flakes to a stance. Place some final small pro at your feet and bust out left onto a large sloping knob and gritty face (10b R). Above, and easy handcrack leads to a sloping area and a gear belay. 5.10b R, 80'.

P2) From the belay, head up the obvious fingers/tips lieback crack (crux, 5.11a) to a series of small roofs. Step left underneath the second roof and pull over on gritty jugs. Two bolts protect the slab above (5.10a R). A final, runout crux above involves stemming up into a flared, gritty offwidth corner with marginal gear (5.9+?, #3-4 BD stoppers, #1 ballnut).

Location

Starts at the toe of the Solstice Celebration Wall, left of the namesake route. 2 rope Rappel from a bolted anchor to climbers' right of the final ledge (shared with Solstice Celebration 5.10c).

Protection

Doubles from tips to hand-size, 2 bolts (3/8"), some micros or ballnuts might protect the final moves on P2.

Photos

While the 5.11a crux of the route is well-protected, many other sections are not, including some heady 5.10- face climbing. The rock quality is not the best on this route, with some seriously grainy sections. I took a hefty whipper pulling over the second roof when a brick-sized foothold departed from the rock. The original 1/4" bolts on this route have been replaced with 3/8" stainless fatties. Jun 25, 2012