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Routes in Head Wall

All Things Considered S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
China Crisis S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coughing up Fleming S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dreams of White Horsts S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Feng Shui S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great White Shark, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hubba Bubba S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Creatures T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Masterpiece Theatre S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reaches From Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Skinhead Grin S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skinhead Sin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
So Freakin' Fun S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stellar Idea S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Take me to the River T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tworgasaminimum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Verde Bunyan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Verde Suave S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Rick Thompson 1987
Page Views: 635 total · 9/month
Shared By: RossV on Jun 24, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route climbs better than it looks. A four star in the guidebook. Great face and crack climbing. Follow a left leaning crack toward an arete. Traverse right under a roof until you are beneath two thin seams. Pull the roof and head straight up to bolted anchors on top.

There actually was a little creature hiding in a large pocket midway up the route. Watch your fingers!

Location

Head Wall Left Side. Right around the corner from Tworgasminimum. Left around the corner from Hubba Bubba.

Protection

Gear is great but small. Bolted anchor.

Photos

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Hadn't climbed trad for a while when I decided to give this a go, and I had a soul crushing defeat. The guidebook also says the gear is good on this one. I dunno, maybe I was in a bad headspace. I remember two distinct "pro or handhold" decision points. Route finding is important for this route too. I recommend double ropes. Good route. Nov 29, 2015