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Routes in C Chimney Cliff

If You Don't Like it Leave T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seeking Enlightenment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tears of Gaia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 636 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 24, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Ascends the wall just left of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff. Uncharacteristic of the other routes on the cliff, this one is a face climb.

P1 5.10b G: From the base of the chimney, climb out left on the wall, angling towards the arete to the left. Work up the arete, then back right and follow amazing incut jugs. At the top, step left, then up past two horizontal cracks. Make a big move to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.9 G: Go straight up (bolt), then move left to cracks. Follow these to a fixed anchor. 50'

Descent: Rappel with a single 60m rope.

Location

At the base of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff.

Protection

P1: Draws only. P2: small rack to 1".

Photos

Mark Bealor
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10b
Mark Bealor   Saranac Lake, NY
  5.10b
A great first pitch, perfectly bolted, and no loose rock. Steep and gymnastic in the middle-felt like a Gunks route. The second pitch is also good, with an interesting crux moving left. Oct 1, 2016
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
I climbed it last year and didn't notice much if any loose rock. This route is very atypical for the Adirondacks. And also very fun. Nice find Jim! Jul 12, 2015