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Routes in Rush Wall

2112 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
La Villa Stangiato T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
New World Man T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rush N Bravado T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Stuart & Bret Ruckman, 1990
Page Views: 78 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jun 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Right of the start of La Villa Strangiato are two bolt lines, both merging near the right end of the Stangiato's crack. This is the right one. Climb past three bolts and on to a shelf, place gear in Stangiato, and work more or less straight up to the anchors. Enjoyable, classic BCC face climbing, albeit a bit short. The Ruckmans rated this 11a, but it didn't seem so to me.

Protection

Three draws for the bolts, and several nuts and small cams to protect the section above (use Strangiato's crack).

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Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
  5.11b
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
  5.11b
Disagree with your rating john. I struggled to onsight this one as every single hold is a downward sloping rail. Only till you hit the jug below bolt 3 is there any relief. It felt easier the 2nd go after you figure out which horrible rail to use, but I'd give it 11b for an onsight burn. Certainly harder than LVS! Jul 15, 2012