Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft|
|FA:||Tony Yaniro. 1988|
|Page Views:||2,058 total, 31/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Anderson on Jun 21, 2012|
|Admins:||grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle|
This area is on private property and is subjected to access issues. Please be cognizant of any sign that preclude its use! Details
DescriptionThis is a fantastic sport climb that was WAY ahead of its time. The rock is perfect, and the moves are elaborate, unusual, and hard. I didn't detect any chipping or other "funny business" on this route, which means it's probably the hardest "natural" route at the City/Castles.
Start about 10 feet left of the dihedral under a small roof that guards a blunt prow. This contrived, but fun start includes an inconsequential crux gaining the face above the roof--think "outside the box". After getting past the initial face, get a no-hands rest in the corner before the crux.
The crux climbs the very steep (45 deg) scooped-out hueco features. I used some very elaborate and odd (even by modern standards) moves to overcome this crux, and I couldn't help but think that when this route was first climbed, these moves would have seemed very unconventional...just more proof of Yaniro's amazing vision and talent for climbing.
This is a fantastic route, and this little crag is a great place to hang out on a hot day...it stays shady well into late afternoon due to its steep nature.