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Routes in Aiguille de la Floria

Fraise des Boatchs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, Alpine, 650 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 762 total, 12/month
Shared By: Seleucus on Jun 21, 2012
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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6 Opinions

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Description

This line is one of the most moderate and consistent climbs on the Lower Bastion. The hike from the top of the 5th pitch to the beginning of the 6th can be somewhat sketchy especially if climbing while snow is still on the middle bastion.

Pitch 1 (5.6)

Pitch 2 (5.7)

Pitch 3 (5.7)

Pitch 4 (5.6)

Pitch 5 (5.7)

Pitch 6 (5.6)

Pitch 7 (5.7)

Descent:

From the top of the lower bastion (top of the 5th pitch) it is possible to rappel from an independent abseil line found to the left of the climbs on the face (down and to the left of the start of the 6th pitch). Three rappels will gain the bottom.

From the top of the middle bastion (top of the 7th pitch) it is possible to descent a scree slope to the east.

Location

From the top of the Index chair lift follow the ski pistes toward Lac Blanc until the Lower Bastion of Grande Floria is on your left. From here follow the path to the base of the cliff (or if you don't see one just go straight for it). The route is found near the right side beginning at the triangular slab as seen in the topo.

Protection

Fully bolted.

Photos

Chris C.
Seattle, WA
  5.7+
Chris C.   Seattle, WA
  5.7+
Rather than rapping the route, you can gain the ridge, traverse to the summit, and then traverse the ridge climbers left back down. A little more fun as you can summit the Aiguille de la Floriaz. This adds maybe 4 more pitches and some simul climbing to the route. Only do it if you are quick, you don't want to miss your lift back down!

I found down climbing some parts of the ridge descent to be more tricky than the route up. Sep 29, 2016