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Shades of Gray
5.13+,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
FA: Mike Patz, 2018
Colorado
> Durango
> Cascade Canyon
> Headbanger's Wall
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Climbing at Cascade Canyon is on private property, not US Forest Service land. Climbing on private land is a privilege - please leave no trace and remind other visitors to treat the area with respect.
Description
The name refers to the color of the rock and to the ethics used to establish the line. For full disclosure, there's a good bit of glue on this one to keep just enough holds on the wall to make in climbable. Nevertheless, the route climbs very well with multiple cruxes on cool angles of rock. Bolted in 2012, this route was an open project until Mike Patz sent in July of 2018.
Start a good bit right of the first bolt on some left-facing flakes, and climb up into and out of the dihedral to a conspicuous hole at bolt four. Make strange tension moves on non-holds out of the hole and into the first crux on the white face to establish below the steep prow. From the chockstone jug (you'll see what I mean), embark on a long stretch of difficult sidepulls and slopers out the prow, finishing with a Hail Mary deadpoint to a flat hold on the headwall. Continue up the headwall on better holds to the anchor.
This route requires very dry conditions as a key crimp in the first crux seeps most of the year. Otherwise, it is a proud and difficulty line.
Location
Shades of Gray begins about 30 feet left of the
Track Team arete. The line is just left of the mungy project with a faded red tag and two draws in wet rock, but one begins climbing almost directly below the first bolt of that line.
Protection
11 bolts and anchors. There is a mandatory stick clip for the high first bolt. Several other bolts are placed in somewhat inconvenient locations to maximize rock quality, so pre-hung longer draws will help in spots. One will almost certainly skip at least one bolt on the upper prow.
Salt Lake City, UT
This route looks so good, Chris! Can't wait to get spanked on it! Jun 23, 2012
Lander, WY
Chattanooga, TN
A left kneepad is useful.
Speculative grade - 13c+... could feel harder without left kneebars or casual with more kneebars. Jul 23, 2018
Durango, CO
I hope everyone enjoys the route! It has some really cool, interesting moves. Jun 23, 2021