A Cloud In The Sky
Sport, 100 ft,
Avg: 3.2 from 12
FA: James & Franziska Garrett, 1994
> Wasatch Range
> Little Cottonwo…
> Hellgate Cliffs
> E Hellgate
Many Hellgate areas closed beginning May 21, 2018 through October 2018. Check photo on page.
UDOT has begun construction of eight Remote Avalanche Control Systems (RACS) permanently installed in the starting zones above the Hellgate cliffs on May 21, 2018. In the interest of public and worker safety, the entire construction zone will be closed to public access for the duration of the project. This includes the runout zones below where rock fall, both natural and work related, may impact.
The climbing and construction areas are located on private land and at the request of the landowner, will be CLOSED. These areas include, all of the Main Slidepath Area, Main Wall, Tower 3, 2, 1, Hell is for Children, and Altaworld.
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More: saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Park off the main Little Cottonwood Canyon road
How do I climb this sand heap?
Oh, Cloud in the Sky... Where to even start? Perhaps with a disclaimer? The most prolific developer at HelmetGate over these past few years has a comment on his topo about ACITS: not recommended. Dun dun dun. Coming from a man who's established some highly climbable decomposing choss adventures, this shouldn't be taken lightly. The Ruckmans on the other hand seem quite appreciative of the line, stating that people love this line despite some friable rock. If you've climbed any old line at HellGate you might have already guessed where the truth lies: they must have been in their best sandbagging mood.
ACITS begins with bomber rock and a fun shuffle along an arching bulge feature. Solid marble-textured holds abound, bolts are close by, swallows swoosh around... Stash your boner away though because none of this pleasant stuff prepares you for what lurks above the 4th or 5th bolt. Surmounting the bulge sets a new tone as you realize it's a long way to the next clip and most of the holds now have the solid feel of your average church wafer. Turns out what sounded like those damn birds diving about is really the ominous buzzing of falling choss.
The feeling of uneasiness will grow through the next section as you come to terms with the fact that you don't belong on this vertical abstraction of a route. If you chose to persevere though, practice your 4-points climbing, tiptoe, levitate, summon your gods and spend those karma points you've accumulated. The reward will be reaching an even thinner section where the scattered marble crystals that kept you on the wall just vanish. You'll be left with nothing but sugary flakes to pull on and profound self-hatred to live by. Assuming you haven't taken a ride yet, don't get greedy and throw to those big pockets that litter the last few feet of the route: they're packed full of sand.
To summarize: the line is fun and has a drilled-on-lead feel to it (James? That would be beyond proud!) and makes for a decent warmup due to the insane amount of time you'll spend balancing on fragile stuff while overgripping for all you're worth. It will teach you not to bitch about choss ever again because it's the absolute baseline in that respect. I'd definitely recommend it if you're solid at 10a, it might feel a bit stouter though.
Also, don't believe everything you read.
Where do I find said sand heap?
Cloud is located on the far right (East) side of the Clamshell, the bulbous expanse of slabby white rock just past the Goatland Wall.
The route starts a few feet left of a pillar that must have resided high on the wall and at some point embraced the ways of the choss and came down to rest against the base of the Clamshell.
How not to DIE going up the sand heap?
12 bolts to chain anchors.
Mandatory long runners for the first 4 or 5 bolts and maybe a couple more for stray bolts up high. You don't want any form of rope drag making you feel heavier than you already are while negotiating this sand castle.
Lower/rap with a 60m.
Getting into the fun...