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Routes in Vector Madness Wall

Boy Cooper T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doubling the Cube S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Halcyon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hop Rising Point T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lack of Principle S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pi in the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straddle the Pony T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
TVC S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tangent T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vector Madness S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vertical Component T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zach's Theorem S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Gary Taylor, Pat Contor
Page Views: 104 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alec LaLonde on Jun 19, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The left line which tackles the steep dihedral directly. Follow two well-spaced bolts up a licheny, moderate slab, then continue directly up to the dihedral. Pull some steep hero moves up undulating cracks until topping out above the roof. Climbs like a sport route with gear, and steeper than it looks!

Rap the route with a single 60m, or continue up the slab past the anchors to the top.

Protection

Two bolts on the slab, then gear to the top. A standard BCC single rack suffices. One placement is behind a flake which I wouldn't really want to fall on...

Two bolt anchor with slings.

Photos

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tenesmus  
 
I'm a minimalist when it comes to using bolts but was really happy to have the new one. You can be a super trad man and skip them all but the gear will be super sketchy and out of character with the rest of the climb. The reason you're there is the steep, juggy section with all those perfect gear placements. This climb is perfect for .11a sport climbers trying to break into .10 trad because you'll find the great feet that give plenty of time for the really easy gear placements. Aug 1, 2015
John Steiger  
 
A new bolt, added to Vector Madness (placed with Gary’s permission), can be used to reach the overhanging dihedral rather than the sketchy piece mentioned by Alec. Chains on top. Great position in the dihedral, well worth doing. Most loose flakes cleaned and face freshly brushed as of this writing – get on it before the lichen grows back! Sep 12, 2014