Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Keith Rankin and Ken Solberg, May 30, 1941.
Page Views: 14,390 total · 179/month
Shared By: WouterVW on Jun 19, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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p-1: Is the low angle slab up from the dirt. Easy ground, class 4 or 5.fun.

p-2: The broken stuff below the big ledge (some call it the “dance floor”) at the base of the slab, above the lower pitch. Other than one little bit of serpentine, it is easy scramble (depending on water, etc.). Big block at the base to sling as anchor for p-1. Very short pitch. Might sling one block for protection or place one piece depending on how the scramble looks. Easily combined with pitch 1.

p-3: There are two crack systems (the 5.4 on the left and 5.6 in the middle) heading up. The pitch ends at a ledge on the right of the vertical crack. It is not all that obvious and don't climb all the way to the huge ledge at the top of the face. The ledge fits 3 people if they are friends. 4 if they are really close friends. Two big bolts at the ledge (and there used to be two pitons in the crack above the ledge, only one there now). 60m does not reach on rap – it is about 15’ short.

p-4: Lower part is just a continuation of the 3rd pitch. Upper part has a couple of cracks to choose from. The left corner has good protection both in the crack and on the left face. 3 bolts on top, serpentine face to slip on. If people are on rappel, climb the corner to the top.

Do not rappel all the way down to the top of the second pitch from the top of the fourth. Two 60m ropes will make it, but you have a really good chance to get your rope stuck. There is a crack a couple of feet below the top anchor that likes to wedge your rope. Rappelling to the top of the third pitch lessens this risk because the angle is different.


Start at Ingalls way trail 1390, turn right towards Longs Pass, then left towards Ingalls Pass. Once over the pass, traverse on snow or follow trail to the south notch of the south peak. See map ('A' is the start of the climb, 'B' is the trailhead):


Normal rack to 2" with a set of nuts. Larger hexes work well in the serpentine cracks.
Seth Moore  
While the rappel is possible with a 60m rope, using a 60m on the rappel of the third pitch leaves you with two challenging options. Either you will likely run out of rope and have to down climb the last 10 feet or so of the pitch (4th class or 5.easy - which is what the party ahead of us did) or you can rappel to the right of the serpentine and stop midway through the 3rd pitch. However, this option means rappelling over some very unsavory loose rock, some of which is rather dangerous in size.

Bring a 70m rope if you have one. Jul 7, 2013
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
double rope 60M rap from the top works well, from there use a single 60. Not sure what people are talking about with ropes getting stuck. Sep 13, 2015
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
This is a very mellow "alpine" climb. All the belay anchors are bolted or slung with fresh tat and the route is rapped. I believe summitpost claims the second pitch's higher quality, middle crack goes at 5.6 but I doubt it was harder than 5.4 at such a low angle. The rock is generally good and the cracks eat gear. Great views of Stuart and the headlight basin area. Jun 27, 2016
Paul Carduner
Seattle, WA
Paul Carduner   Seattle, WA
If you choose to climb this route with a single 60m rope you will have some interesting rappel shenanigans. Here is how we did it:

Pitch 4: Simple two strand rappel back to the bolted anchor at the top of pitch 3.

Pitch 3: a 60m rope won't cut it on this pitch unless you do some tricks. I tossed more than half the rope down so that at least one strand would just reach the bottom of the pitch. Then I rigged a biner block so I could rappel off of that single strand. I then tied two cordelettes to the other end of the rope to use as my "tag line". This pitch is clean enough that your biner/rope won't get stuck when you pull it.

Pitch 2: Simple and short two strand rappel back to the webbing at the top of pitch 1.

Pitch 1: Again, a single 60m rope won't get you all the way down to the start of the climb, but it will get you to a nice ledge where you can either setup another rappel on some questionable webbing, or just down climb the remaining 4th class rock to the bottom. We opted for the latter. Jul 5, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Bring two ropes!

Very accessible alpine route, and a superb climb, even if it's short relative to the approach, which is not too pleasant. Very easy to find the route once you've made the slog.

We did it in three pitches all the way to the summit. First pitch is a fun easy scramble that should be linked into the second. Hand crack in a slab. Belay on the ledge next to the giant serpentine boulder. From here, scramble up a short step to another ledge and then up the "middle" crack - not sure why you would go any other way. Fun climbing to a set of fat bolts. We removed the tat on these as the hangers are made for rappelling from directly, which you shouldn't have to do anyway. We then climbed a final pitch up to the notch with the last rappel station, then traversed to the summit. Down-climbed to the station and made a 60m double-rope rappel to the ledge above the short step at the base of the upper slab. Down-climb this (unexposed, easy) to the serpentine boulder ledge, then 45m rappel from the slung boulder (added the tat/ring from the 2nd pitch anchor) to where you started.

Bring your own tat/ring in case the first pitch anchor has been cut, as we found it. Jul 31, 2017
Portland, OR
marmots   Portland, OR
Climbed this route recently for the 2nd time. It felt slicker than I remember! Ironically, I think a marmot chewed up my gaiters and trekking pole left at the base. A quick note on the descent:

The first rap from the three bolt anchor at the end of the roped climb is 30m. The second rap is 60m all the way to the easy ledge at the top of pitch 1. The rap from the very large slung boulder at the top of pitch 1 is 45m to the ledge at the base.

60m doubles, twins, or a tag line setup are the best options for this one in my opinion. The intermediate anchor options for a single 60 or 70 are pretty bad (sketchy rap station on ridge skiers left, wobbly boulder, then serpentine downclimb). Jul 9, 2018
Paul Brown
Seattle, WA
Paul Brown   Seattle, WA
We climbed the route with a group of 6 carrying two 60m and one 80m. We did a 60m rappel from the top followed by an 80m rappel to the broad ledge, then a 60m rappel from the ledge (with the last person scrambling down) to the top of the first pitch and an 80m rappel to the start of the climb. The 80m was just perfect for that final rap. Jul 30, 2018