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Routes in Mt. Tyndall

North Rib T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Northeast Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tyndall Effect, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Daniel Roitman, Gus Benner and Sergio Aragon
Page Views: 3,085 total, 46/month
Shared By: Ryan Bracci on Jun 19, 2012
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Mt. Tyndall lies to the west of Mt. Williamson right off of Shepherd's Pass. It was first climbed on July 6, 1864 by Clarence King and Richard Cotter.

If one views Tyndall from the northeast there is a clear buttress separating the East and North-East face. The Tyndall Effect is just to the right of the Northeast Arete or buttress. Just to the right of that is a class 4 route called the East Face as described in Secor's High Sierra book. And further right of that is the North Rib route (class 3).

The Tyndall Effect climbs up the right-facing lieback cracks moving left on the first few pitches then heading up and right on pitch 4. After that one can continue to stay roped up or scramble up the remaining 4th class rock. Continue at a right angle until you merge with the North Rib route reaching the Northridge at the top of a notch. The climbing is easy from (5.0-5.6) and can be easier or harder depending on which was you go. The Secor book says 5.6 but I think the climbing was easier and the hardest we came across was 5.4. There are many climbing options and variations though to take on this route. Including going left and meeting up with the Northeast Arete. One can make it harder if they choose to do so. A direct variation might be nice, heading straight up to the ridge but I'm not sure how hard the climbing would be as you near the ridge itself.


Singles and a few nuts.