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Routes in Diagonal Ramp Wall

Fang Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Felonious Mopery T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kielbasy Posse T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kill It Before It Spreads T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leapin' Louie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Norman's Crack of Joy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tun Tavern T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: June 16, 2012 Lukasz Czyz
Page Views: 328 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jun 18, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Go over the chockstone, bridging the gap of the alcove. Take the vertical crack until it turns right and fades, then climb excellent face moves to a final crack near the top.
Climbing directly to this final crack is 5.10b, but good holds slightly right (basically veering into Leapin' Louie for the finish) tame the beast significantly.

Location

Start: on the right side of an alcove between two opposing corners, below a large chockstone.
This is very close to the upper right end of the "useable" part of this cliff.

Protection

A full set of C3s, a .7 and #3 C4, a runner or two, and two quickdraws. There is one bolt enroute.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
There's two more routes and a variation not currently listed here, but of the 6.5 climbs this one IMHO is easily the best.

TR can be setup using the climber's path (right). Be carefully coming down to the top of the cliff (there's a rap anchor 5 feet up a tree). Directional off the smaller birch is helpful, otherwise clip the rope into the bolt. Jul 2, 2012