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Routes in Sugarloaf's Stepchild

Armchair Critics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beautiful Loser T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bumblies in Red Socks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Standards T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunny Side Up! T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
TWAT crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: May & June 1978
Page Views: 363 total · 5/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Jun 18, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

P1: climb the steep finger crack to a rest and then climb a lower angle crack, still difficult, to the bolted belay. Each section of the pitch contains a crux section (5.10).

P2: climb straight up a hand sized crack above the belay. Continue via the path of least resistance and traverse right to a second set of bolts.

Location

The route is left and below the north face of Sugarloaf on the small west facing cliff band. Look for a beautiful finger crack. This is the start of the climb (there was a dead tree lying somewhat horizontal at the bottom). Rap the route, ca. 150 feet.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack. There is one or two fixed pins on the first pitch. The top of each pitch has two anchor bolts.

Photos

Karl Kiser  
 
A number of persons worked on the FA. I expect Mark Motes did the first complete ascent.

P1: Mark Gillis, Mark Motes, Karl Kiser and Gary Gramlich.

P2: Mark Motes, Garth Magee, Karl Kiser, Reed Cundiff and Gary Gramlich. Jun 19, 2012
Karl Kiser  
 
The anchor bolts are about 30 years old. Take a bolt kit and add a 3/8" stainless bolt. Also, take two ropes until someone confirms the length of the raps.

It is easier and faster when you fall...

Lastly, the was a log at the beginning of the first pitch which allowed access to the finger crack. If the log is gone there may be difficult moves to the start of the crack. Jun 18, 2012