Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: May & June 1978
Page Views: 1,112 total · 8/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Jun 18, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Warning Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1: climb the steep finger crack to a rest and then climb a lower angle crack, still difficult, to the bolted belay. Each section of the pitch contains a crux section (5.10).

P2: climb straight up a hand sized crack above the belay. Continue via the path of least resistance and traverse right to a second set of bolts.

Location Suggest change

The route is left and below the north face of Sugarloaf on the small west facing cliff band. Look for a beautiful finger crack. This is the start of the climb (there was a dead tree lying somewhat horizontal at the bottom). Rap the route, ca. 150 feet.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Organ trad rack. There is one or two fixed pins on the first pitch. The top of each pitch has two anchor bolts.

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