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Styx n Stones
5.10, Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Mark Motes, late 1970s
New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Rabbit Ears Area > Citadel
Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas
The Organ Mountains are in the Organ Mountains Desert Peaks National Monument which includes eight Wilderness Study Areas (WSAs). Placing new bolts, even if hand-drilled, is not allowed in WSAs. Please see section 1.6, D5, (g) at the
BLM Manual 6330—Management of BLM Wilderness Study Areas
document for the policy regarding fixed anchors in WSAs. More about the Organ Mountain Desert Peaks National Monument, including maps showing the WSAs, can be found
The Access Fund has
some helpful information
about public land agencies and the bolting rules of each agency.
Three short pitches. The climb faces north and is a good choice for summer climbing in the Organs.
p1: Climb the steep crack (5.10-) in a corner and belay on a large ledge.
p2: Traverse left from the belay and climb a short difficult crack (the crux, 5.10). Continue higher, clip a bolt and belay next to a block above.
p3: Climb up an easy face to the top.
You need to follow the rock and walk uphill and right up the gully from "Wish You Were Here" to near the end of the gully. The lower North Face of the Citadel is now rot your right and below.
The start is a steep crack in a corner on the left side of the gully.
Standard Organ trad rack. There is a bolt above the crux. Rap off the east side of the Citadel and walk back to the packs.
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Styx n Stones: second pitch (early 1980s).