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Styx n Stones

5.10, Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Mark Motes, late 1970s
New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Rabbit Ears Area > Citadel
Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Three short pitches. The climb faces north and is a good choice for summer climbing in the Organs.

p1: Climb the steep crack (5.10-) in a corner and belay on a large ledge.

p2: Traverse left from the belay and climb a short difficult crack (the crux, 5.10). Continue higher, clip a bolt and belay next to a block above.

p3: Climb up an easy face to the top.

Location

You need to follow the rock and walk uphill and right up the gully from "Wish You Were Here" to near the end of the gully. The lower North Face of the Citadel is now rot your right and below.

The start is a steep crack in a corner on the left side of the gully.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack. There is a bolt above the crux. Rap off the east side of the Citadel and walk back to the packs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Styx n Stones:  second pitch (early 1980s).
[Hide Photo] Styx n Stones: second pitch (early 1980s).