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Routes in The Citadel

Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
best forgotten art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Motes, late 1970s
Page Views: 79 total, 1/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Jun 18, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

Three short pitches. The climb faces north and is a good choice for summer climbing in the Organs.

p1: Climb the steep crack (5.10-) in a corner and belay on a large ledge.

p2: Traverse left from the belay and climb a short difficult crack (the crux, 5.10). Continue higher, clip a bolt and belay next to a block above.

p3: Climb up an easy face to the top.

Location

You need to follow the rock and walk uphill and right up the gully from "Wish You Were Here" to near the end of the gully. The lower North Face of the Citadel is now rot your right and below.

The start is a steep crack in a corner on the left side of the gully.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack. There is a bolt above the crux. Rap off the east side of the Citadel and walk back to the packs.

Photos

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