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Routes in El Yelmo

By the face T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ziggy Stardust T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
FA: 1982
Page Views: 370 total · 5/month
Shared By: Maribetula on Jun 18, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is at the very beginning. The guidebook says a "violent move" and I totally agree. After that, it follows some cracks till a steep slab climbing that looks more difficult than what it actually is. Scary if you don´t like slab climbing (if you don´t like old school slab climbing just don´t go to El Yelmo).

Location

Starts on the right side of the flake called "el gendarme" (well bolted) and goes straight more or less until the summit of el gendarme. To finish, it follows the last pitch of the "Walkiria" route. Get down to the West; there is a very easy route that you can downclimb (5.3), called La Valentina. Do not take off the shoes, though.

Protection

Bolted but some gear is needed as well (friends).

Photos

Maribetula  
 
I climbed all the way to the top of the flake (70 m rope was ok) but it´s better to do it at least in 2 pitches, as the rope was pulling too much. Jun 18, 2012

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