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Koo Koo's Nest

5.11b/c, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: Lee Terveen
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Mohican > Asylum


If you're the kind of climber who likes routes that start out easy and end with you calling the suicide hotline, then this one will be right up your alley!

Koo Koo's Nest starts on a neat flake system and works its way up into some fun ass 5.10 territory for about five bolts. For those who only want a warm-up or a 5.10b challenge there are anchors after the fifth bolt.

For those who want a beat down, there is the rest of this insane climb. Crimp your way to the sixth bolt, clip and take a nice, long Koo Koo's rest. Be sure to get it ALL back before you COMMIT YOURSELF to the remaining cruxes of this ass kicking endeavor. GET IT?! COMMIT YOURSELF?! This climbing lingo is perfect for this Asylum theme!

Any who, the maddening 5.11 moves start with a maniacal mantel that leads to a unsettling undercling that will probably make you more frustrated than a colorblind guy with a rubix cube.

And it just gets worse (or better) after that! If you don't know the beta you'll be more pissed off than the Keebler Elf who just got his fudge packed.

On a positive note, the route ends with a raving lunatic of a roof pull that will probably leave you madder than a one legged waitress at IHOP because you'll be more pumped than...well, you get the idea.

Get on this climb! It's insanely fun! Just remember to get the redpoint, you might have to go up and down more than a whore's drawers.


This freak of nature is the second climb you will see if you walk into this freak show from The Headshop.


10 bolts. Open shunt anchors.