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N Carolina
> 3. Piedmont Region
> Crowders Mountain
> Main Climbing A…
> 05. Rising Sun Wall
Buddha Bulge
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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60SecondsOverTokyo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ask Mr. Science T,S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Buddha Bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Happy Ending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Added Weight S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tom Waits For No One S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yokohama Mama T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Mark Pell, Rodney Lanier |
| Page Views: | 910 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Eduardo Ramirez on Jun 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Fun route. Hard onsight.
Look for the graffiti "ROBERT" this is the start of Buddha Bulge. Three main bulges. Start right of the first bulge (on Robert) climb out left. Climb up the second bulge and here is where the 'meat and potatoes' of the climb is. Protection is micro sized on good rock ( by Crowders standards).
Pull the last bulge out left before climbing up onto a ledge where you can easily escape left but climbing the seam cliff right with good but subtle protection is recommended for a bomber horizontal anchor area just above th crack system.
Great climb and easy enough to scramble the gully to reach the bomber horizontal natural anchor area.
Please climb this route... it needs love too!
Look for the graffiti "ROBERT" this is the start of Buddha Bulge. Three main bulges. Start right of the first bulge (on Robert) climb out left. Climb up the second bulge and here is where the 'meat and potatoes' of the climb is. Protection is micro sized on good rock ( by Crowders standards).
Pull the last bulge out left before climbing up onto a ledge where you can easily escape left but climbing the seam cliff right with good but subtle protection is recommended for a bomber horizontal anchor area just above th crack system.
Great climb and easy enough to scramble the gully to reach the bomber horizontal natural anchor area.
Please climb this route... it needs love too!
Location
Coming from David's Castle Wall Buddha Bulge will be the first route cliff left on Rising Sun Wall. The name describes what you are looking for, bulges leading past a ledge cliff right of this route about 25-30 feet off the ground.
Coming from Red Wall locate the two sport routes just past the Arborist. Walk towards Davids Castle Wall and just before you hike past Rising Sun Wall you'll see the short ledge cliff right of Buddha Bulge.
Coming from Red Wall locate the two sport routes just past the Arborist. Walk towards Davids Castle Wall and just before you hike past Rising Sun Wall you'll see the short ledge cliff right of Buddha Bulge.
Protection
Trad Rack - micro nuts for the main crux (second bulge), BD-C3s or Metolius TCU's, ate up nuts.
Natural Anchor - after the last bulge climb the seam leading up choss rock. This will lead you to a great horizontal to set up top-rope from. Otherwise belay from here and walk off cliff left (careful of the briars). The horizontal eats up .4-.75 BD C4s or anything in that range (tri-cams work well).
Natural Anchor - after the last bulge climb the seam leading up choss rock. This will lead you to a great horizontal to set up top-rope from. Otherwise belay from here and walk off cliff left (careful of the briars). The horizontal eats up .4-.75 BD C4s or anything in that range (tri-cams work well).
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