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Routes in Rising Sun Wall

60SecondsOverTokyo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ask Mr. Science T,S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buddha Bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Ending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Added Weight S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Waits For No One S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yokohama Mama T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Mark Pell, Rodney Lanier
Page Views: 279 total, 4/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Fun route. Hard onsight.

Look for the graffiti "ROBERT" this is the start of Buddha Bulge. Three main bulges. Start right of the first bulge (on Robert) climb out left. Climb up the second bulge and here is where the 'meat and potatoes' of the climb is. Protection is micro sized on good rock ( by Crowders standards).

Pull the last bulge out left before climbing up onto a ledge where you can easily escape left but climbing the seam cliff right with good but subtle protection is recommended for a bomber horizontal anchor area just above th crack system.

Great climb and easy enough to scramble the gully to reach the bomber horizontal natural anchor area.

Please climb this route... it needs love too!

Location

Coming from David's Castle Wall Buddha Bulge will be the first route cliff left on Rising Sun Wall. The name describes what you are looking for, bulges leading past a ledge cliff right of this route about 25-30 feet off the ground.

Coming from Red Wall locate the two sport routes just past the Arborist. Walk towards Davids Castle Wall and just before you hike past Rising Sun Wall you'll see the short ledge cliff right of Buddha Bulge.

Protection

Trad Rack - micro nuts for the main crux (second bulge), BD-C3s or Metolius TCU's, ate up nuts.

Natural Anchor - after the last bulge climb the seam leading up choss rock. This will lead you to a great horizontal to set up top-rope from. Otherwise belay from here and walk off cliff left (careful of the briars). The horizontal eats up .4-.75 BD C4s or anything in that range (tri-cams work well).

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