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Routes in Rising Sun Wall

60SecondsOverTokyo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ask Mr. Science T,S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buddha Bulge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Ending T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Added Weight S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tom Waits For No One S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yokohama Mama T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
FA: Doug Reed, Chip Self
Page Views: 473 total, 7/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jun 17, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Cliff Left of Arborist(5.10) are two bolted lines. Ask Mr. Science was retro-bolted so you have the option of climbing it in bold traditional style or the still very pumpy sport style with a different name (Tom Waits For No One).

Start in the big crack/small dihedral with the bolts right next to the route. Follow the line of most protection which is mostly next to the bolts until you get past the third bolt.

Location

Cliff left of Arborist(5.10) on Red Wall. Locate the six bolts.

Protection

Traditional gear or just use the six bolts to the sport route next to it.

Use the cold shut/bolt with chain combo.

Photos

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Wade Parker
Clover SC
Wade Parker   Clover SC
I took a look at this route again the other day and feel it's been severely neutered since the installation of the sport route literally 18" away from the bomber 4" crack which starts the route. Many opinions will justify the action but bottom line, contriving a sport route right on top of an existing line is unacceptable and changed a classic old school line forever. Jan 30, 2016
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Anchor bolts and top two protection bolts were replaced 12/7/2013. Dec 7, 2013
Cragmama Lineberry
North Carolina
Cragmama Lineberry   North Carolina
Ask Mr. Science is actually still a gear route. It goes up that dihedral and then takes the path of least resistance to the left of the bolts. The two bolted lines that start from the ledge were FA's by Gus Glitch and Monica Browne. They have 3 separate bolts and then share the last 3. Both are very nice routes, despite a bit of loose rock at the top, and both feel 10- ish. They will be documented in detail in the upcoming guide. I have not added them on here yet b/c I have been so busy wiht the guide, but I can when I get a chance to. Jun 18, 2012