Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,534 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Beichner on Jun 17, 2012 with updates from Ham Burgaler
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route

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The opening moves are the fun of this route and also the crux. A cheater block is often placed for the start of this climb, feel free to move them out of the way and enjoy the opening moves. The rest of the route is straight up with solid large holds. Overall this is a fun little route, one of my personal favorites and one of the better routes in the park.


The arete on the left side of the west face of Five Finger Block. Located on Rim Road, drive to the main climbing area and follow the right path at the picnic area down to block. The route is right there next to the down tree. Don't worry about it falling, it has been there as long as I can remember and not going anywhere.

Five Finger Block's West face is clean and for the Mills this face sees some of the most sunlight in the entire park. After a big rain it is usually the first to dry up along with being the first to thaw in the spring. Bolts are located on the North side of the West face for around 20-30 foot TR climbs. The rest of the block can be bouldered with numerous variations and top-outs, some bad falls and a pad is helpful. Head to the north end where a small boulder sits on a ledge for easy down climbs or to set up a TR. This is a great place to warm up or for beginners. It is typically a less crowded block.


Bolts at top. Setting up TR go to the left and on the north side of the block there is a 3 foot rock sitting on the ledge for an easy up and down on top of Five Finger Block. It can also be reach by climbing the East Face which is pretty much stairs of ledges.

Many horizontals offer ample protection for leading this short climb with a couple tricams or smallish cams.