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Hattie's Garden (the climb)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in 02. Gulley No.1 Buttress
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Cody's Lament T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Coin de la Souris T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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First Shot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Zero T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Land Ahoy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Lead Poisoning T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Life By the Tracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mice & Men T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mouseketeers T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Part the Sea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rodent Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Superior Races, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ten Comandments (Mid-cliff start), The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Bob Ahearn and Nick Dukehart May 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,022 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bob A on Jun 17, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
The climb is located on the Gully #1 buttress below the Gully#1 winter ice climb.Fun climb with interesting moves on nice rock.The crux is at the first bolt but the first gear is about 20 ft up so there is a bit of an entrance fee but not too hard to get to.
Climb the face just left of the right hand side of the "rainbow" weakness to protection about 20 ft up on the right.A couple of balancey moves to a mantle and stance to clip the first bolt.Step a little left,pull the crux and climb up slightly left past three more well spaced bolts to the two bolt anchor on Land Ahoy.
Climb the face just left of the right hand side of the "rainbow" weakness to protection about 20 ft up on the right.A couple of balancey moves to a mantle and stance to clip the first bolt.Step a little left,pull the crux and climb up slightly left past three more well spaced bolts to the two bolt anchor on Land Ahoy.
Location
To find the Gully#1 buttress,look for a large gravel pullout on the cliff side of rt 302 in Crawford Notch between the two sets of guardrails.Park here and follow a well marked trail up to Hattie's Memorial Garden on the tracks(10 min).Turn right and follow tracks for approximately 1- 2 minutes,cross a small drainage ( 8-inch "slot") in the tracks and look for a small clearing on the left ( 30 RR ties further) with a small cairn.Follow path of least resistence straight up to the cliff.
Look for an obvious flake/arch (life By the Tracks) which forms the left side of the "rainbow" weakness. Start on the face about 8 ft left of the right hand weakness. Rappell with two ropes, or with one 60m make two raps: 1)down to anchor on Part the Sea below garden terrace on left and then 2) down and left to start of that climb.
[NOTE: We rapped directly to the ground with one 70m rope", slabbing a bit right to "hit" the ground at the start of "Land Ahoy" R Hall 6/16/18 ]
Look for an obvious flake/arch (life By the Tracks) which forms the left side of the "rainbow" weakness. Start on the face about 8 ft left of the right hand weakness. Rappell with two ropes, or with one 60m make two raps: 1)down to anchor on Part the Sea below garden terrace on left and then 2) down and left to start of that climb.
[NOTE: We rapped directly to the ground with one 70m rope", slabbing a bit right to "hit" the ground at the start of "Land Ahoy" R Hall 6/16/18 ]
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