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Routes in 27 - Wawona Tunnel

Overdrive T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dale Bard, Ron Kauk, Nic Taylor, George Meyers (1976)
Page Views: 325 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jun 15, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

To approach this climb from below park along Hwy 140 near the 140/120 junction. A river crossing and bushwhack through poison oak will need to be made to reach the base.

To approach from above (as you definitely should!!), park at the tourist packed Discovery View parking area at the east end of Wawona Tunnel on Hwy 41. Walk west along the rim of the cliff for about 100 yards. The topo in the Reid guide shows a large pine tree on a ledge 60ft below the rim which is the goal of your first rappel. This pine is now dead and broken in half, so look for a large dead broken pine instead. Rappel down to this ledge. From the ledge fix the rope and make a 160ft rappel straight down to another ledge. This ledge is the top of pitch 1 and is where you will start the climb if approaching from above. There is a 1 bolt anchor (bolt is good) at the left end of this ledge below the left facing corner which is pitch 2.

Pitch 2: Climb the left-facing corner. The start has some bushes growing out of it but it's not too bad. The middle is usually wet. But overall this is a pretty fun pitch with lots of handjams and some mild offwidthing. Scramble up loose blocks at the end and belay at a newly replaced 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: Traverse across flake to the right and climb up under the roof. The handjams out the roof were a bit wide for me, but there are also some good face holds to use. The roof is burly 11a and is as steep as they come. Above the lip the crack narrows to fingers and require some more cruxy 10d climbing with thin finger jams and liebacking to the ledge.

A final dirty pitch of 5.7 leads up the steep corner and ledges to the top

Protection

Pro to 4" with extra 2-3"

Photos

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Alexey
San Jose
 
Alexey   San Jose
 
Without above approach description about Brocken in half pine tree we probably would never find this climb. But long looking climb Overdrive - turned out to be disappointment..
probably because of hight expectations? Sep 29, 2012