Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dale Bard, Ron Kauk, Nic Taylor, George Meyers (1976)|
|Page Views:||512 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on Jun 15, 2012|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
To approach from above (as you definitely should!!), park at the tourist packed Discovery View parking area at the east end of Wawona Tunnel on Hwy 41. Walk west along the rim of the cliff for about 100 yards. The topo in the Reid guide shows a large pine tree on a ledge 60ft below the rim which is the goal of your first rappel. This pine is now dead and broken in half, so look for a large dead broken pine instead. Rappel down to this ledge. From the ledge fix the rope and make a 160ft rappel straight down to another ledge. This ledge is the top of pitch 1 and is where you will start the climb if approaching from above. There is a 1 bolt anchor (bolt is good) at the left end of this ledge below the left facing corner which is pitch 2.
Pitch 2: Climb the left-facing corner. The start has some bushes growing out of it but it's not too bad. The middle is usually wet. But overall this is a pretty fun pitch with lots of handjams and some mild offwidthing. Scramble up loose blocks at the end and belay at a newly replaced 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: Traverse across flake to the right and climb up under the roof. The handjams out the roof were a bit wide for me, but there are also some good face holds to use. The roof is burly 11a and is as steep as they come. Above the lip the crack narrows to fingers and require some more cruxy 10d climbing with thin finger jams and liebacking to the ledge.
A final dirty pitch of 5.7 leads up the steep corner and ledges to the top