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Cream Puff

5.10c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 22 votes
FA: John Hoffman - 1983
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Grouse Slab > E Face

Description

Hard, super thin balance/friction start. Easier in cool conditions. Crux getting to/past first bolt while climbing through smooth gray patch/micro crack. Little bit of distance between the upper bolts but well protected. A more asthetically pleasing climb than Caifura, but much less committing if you can get to the first bolt, an thus not as statisfying of a lead as Caifura.

Location

Micro-crack, thin face slab route just right of Caifura

Protection

Four-bolts, two-bolt anchor on top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] You can get a #3 offset in the little crack before the first bolt and after one hard move you're in 9+ territory. I actually liked this route more than Caifura. Jun 24, 2012
MAR
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I found this a bit stiff for 5.10b, but mostly because I could not reach the positive hold necessary to confidently pass the first bolt while trusting that slippery left foot (I'm 5.4, for reference). My follower grabbed the hold early on and moon walked those feet until one stuck enough that he could step up onto something better. Hilarious ;). Sep 4, 2012
MisterCattell Cattell
Modesto, Ca
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Definitely quite stiff for .10b May 30, 2015
Hans Wernetti
San Francisco, CA
5.10c
[Hide Comment] As of 7/1/18 the first bolt of this route has been removed. But it's possible to climb the route on toprope using the anchor at the top of Caifura (the next route immediately to the left) Jul 2, 2018