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Routes in The Fisher Block

3 Speed on Vinyl V7-8 7B
Dr. Quinn V1+ 5
Fisher Fissure V6 7A
From 'Down-Unda' V4 6B
Nala V0 4
Revolution of the Youth V0 4
Up Into The Green Silence V4 6B
What's Left of Fissure V3+ 6A+
Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,193 total · 17/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Jun 14, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

This is basically the direct line of '3 Speed On Vinyl' (aka 'Medicine Man'). Start standing on the large chalked jug shelf (same start as '3 Speed'). Grab a sidepull crimp with your left hand, move your feet around and do a foot/hand match with your right heel on the starting hold. Rock up and reach high to a good right sidepull (crux). Bump left hand to another good edge. From here, the top out is relatively straight forward on good holds. This problem is more logical and less contrived than '3 Speed' and is definitely easier. The landing is flat, the movement is great and it's just high enough to add some excitement.

I'm not sure if this problem has been done before. If it has, feel free to let me know and I'll change the info to match that. Based on the condition of the top out holds, I would guess that if it has been climbed before, that hasn't happened in quite a while...

Location

This problem starts the same as '3 Speed', but goes directly up. It more or less faces 'Zig Zag Crack'.

Protection

A couple of pads are sufficient.

Photos

Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V4
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V4
Really great problem thanks for the (re) cleaning effort Christian. May 18, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Yah, I'd like to clean this better, but to do so would either require an extension ladder or some gear and a rope to clean it on rappel. Unfortunately, my trad rack is back in Colorado (where I live most of the time) and I haven't had access to an extension ladder. I'm heading back to Colorado in a week, but hopefully someone will take the time to give it a good scrub soon because it would be very worthwhile to do so! Nov 2, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
If the topout were clean this would have easily 4 stars in my book. Either way, seriously great problem. Nov 2, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Jamie--

Glad to see someone getting on it! And enjoying it so much. Personally, I think it's a pretty sweet little line with great movement. Certainly better than most of the other climbs v5 and under at the Black Jacks. Sep 20, 2013
JamieRe
Providence, RI
  V4+
JamieRe   Providence, RI
  V4+
Did this last weekend and it was super awesome. The highlight of the trip for me Sep 20, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Some video of the climb (starts at 2:50):

vimeo.com/45004357 Jul 1, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
FMFA- I like that. A notable achievement in a climate like this, where the moss usually wins!

I just hope that this line starts to see some more traffic (thus keeping the moss somewhat at bay) because it really is quite good and one of the better of that grade at the Blackjacks.

Either way, thanks for sharing your thoughts! Jun 16, 2012
Luke W.
Prescott
 
Luke W.   Prescott
 
When I climbed this a while back I just topped out in the mossy jugs. I think you obtained the FMFA (first moss free ascent). Jun 15, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
Luke- Definitely let me know if you have any info/insight on the climb and I'll be happy to change anything. I recognize that it's unlikely that it hasn't been climbed before as it is fairly obvious and not all that difficult. But, I've never seen chalk on it and the top holds were dirty!! :)

But yah, I'd love to give the deserved credit to whomever came before. Jun 14, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
 
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
 
I cleaned the top out the best that I could, but I only had a 6' ladder and it would be best cleaned on rappel. Once the top is cleaned, the top out will be a tad easier (and safer) and the problem will be quite good.

As for the grade, it's hard to say. After cleaning, it only took me two tries to climb it. It's definitely easier than '3 Speed' (which I have also climbed). However, this problem is to my strengths (crimps and technical climbing) so it's hard to grade. Felt about the same as 'Spraguesorus' for me, or maybe a little bit easier. Get on it and let me know what you think! Jun 14, 2012

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