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Chair Bivy

5.8 V2, Boulder, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: Keller and Strong
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 03 - Cl… > Chair Bivy Buttress

Description

This problem has now been sent as a route that goes to the top. The start can be done three ways providing three different variations. A V2 off width problem to start , a V1 layback problem to start, or a stand start that still goes at 5.8.

Either way, once past the initial start, the crack is wide and it goes to the top. Some mandatory 5.8 off width was required here. We thought it was enjoyable, and I even threw in a foot stack or two.

Unlike most DL off width cracks that are surrounded by blocky ledges this was legit crack climbing.

(INFO on original boulder problem below)
This problem is super fun, and is one of a kind at the lake. OW roof crack problem, which we found best to climb feet first.

Starts on juggy flake inside crack. Finishes out and around roof about 10 feet up on an obvious jug.

Chair Bivy would be 4 star problem if not for two reasons: OW climbing could be by passed by lay backing the flake with low feet.

Location

Chair Bivy Buttress, obvious wide splitter crack up the formation.

Protection

Some Large cams for the route.

A single pad and spotter will do the trick if just trying the boulder problem.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown clubber demonstrating the chair bivy, earlier this season at Mike's climber party.
[Hide Photo] Unknown clubber demonstrating the chair bivy, earlier this season at Mike's climber party.
Giving Chair Bivy the old ground up go. It is harder than I remembered. Could have used some bigger gear.
[Hide Photo] Giving Chair Bivy the old ground up go. It is harder than I remembered. Could have used some bigger gear.
Beta Photo. This is the buttress which is below weissner's. Hopefully someone can help get this organized better.
[Hide Photo] Beta Photo. This is the buttress which is below weissner's. Hopefully someone can help get this organized better.
Inch by inch through the business.
[Hide Photo] Inch by inch through the business.
The start.
[Hide Photo] The start.
Ryan just about done.
[Hide Photo] Ryan just about done.
Keller rounding the corner.
[Hide Photo] Keller rounding the corner.
Keller on the FA.
[Hide Photo] Keller on the FA.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Looks like a "blue collar" route ;) Jun 14, 2012
chris tregge
Madison WI
[Hide Comment] Awesome looking line. Nice work! Sep 12, 2012
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
[Hide Comment] This looks cool, never seen this area before. Sep 13, 2012