Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chair Bivy Buttress

Blades of Crass T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Chair Bivy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V2 5+
Two Dead Ducks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Boulder, 40 ft
FA: Keller and Strong
Page Views: 115 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ryan Strong on Jun 13, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This problem has now been sent as a route that goes to the top. The start can be done three ways providing three different variations. A V2 off width problem to start , a V1 layback problem to start, or a stand start that still goes at 5.8.

Either way, once past the initial start, the crack is wide and it goes to the top. Some mandatory 5.8 off width was required here. We thought it was enjoyable, and I even threw in a foot stack or two.

Unlike most DL off width cracks that are surrounded by blocky ledges this was legit crack climbing.



(INFO on original boulder problem below)
This problem is super fun, and is one of a kind at the lake. OW roof crack problem, which we found best to climb feet first.

Starts on juggy flake inside crack. Finishes out and around roof about 10 feet up on an obvious jug.

Chair Bivy would be 4 star problem if not for two reasons: OW climbing could be by passed by lay backing the flake with low feet.


Location

Chair Bivy Buttress, obvious wide splitter crack up the formation.

Protection

Some Large cams for the route.


A single pad and spotter will do the trick if just trying the boulder problem.
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
This looks cool, never seen this area before. Sep 13, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Awesome looking line. Nice work! Sep 12, 2012
Looks like a "blue collar" route ;) Jun 14, 2012