Chair Bivy
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British V2 YDS 5+ Font
Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
Type: | Boulder, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Keller and Strong |
Page Views: | 1,123 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Strong on Jun 13, 2012 |
Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel |
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Description
This problem has now been sent as a route that goes to the top. The start can be done three ways providing three different variations. A V2 off width problem to start , a V1 layback problem to start, or a stand start that still goes at 5.8.
Either way, once past the initial start, the crack is wide and it goes to the top. Some mandatory 5.8 off width was required here. We thought it was enjoyable, and I even threw in a foot stack or two.
Unlike most DL off width cracks that are surrounded by blocky ledges this was legit crack climbing.
(INFO on original boulder problem below)
This problem is super fun, and is one of a kind at the lake. OW roof crack problem, which we found best to climb feet first.
Starts on juggy flake inside crack. Finishes out and around roof about 10 feet up on an obvious jug.
Chair Bivy would be 4 star problem if not for two reasons: OW climbing could be by passed by lay backing the flake with low feet.
Either way, once past the initial start, the crack is wide and it goes to the top. Some mandatory 5.8 off width was required here. We thought it was enjoyable, and I even threw in a foot stack or two.
Unlike most DL off width cracks that are surrounded by blocky ledges this was legit crack climbing.
(INFO on original boulder problem below)
This problem is super fun, and is one of a kind at the lake. OW roof crack problem, which we found best to climb feet first.
Starts on juggy flake inside crack. Finishes out and around roof about 10 feet up on an obvious jug.
Chair Bivy would be 4 star problem if not for two reasons: OW climbing could be by passed by lay backing the flake with low feet.
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