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Routes in BFD Rock
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NBD T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smell, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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WTF T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Tedd Thompson |
| Page Views: | 1,227 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Benjamin Eaton on Jun 12, 2012 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
This is a great and tough route that is overhanging and full of sharp crimps. Scramble to the top of the large ledge with your belayer to start the route. Stick-clipping the first bolt would be a smart idea.
The first two bolts are accessed by pulling on small crimps, making V5 moves. Large edges and small jugs help you run it out to the third both that is very awkward to clip because of the nasty small roof you have to fiddle with. Continue using sharp edges to pass more bolts, using good footwork. After clipping the last bolt, head left on two positive, but small, crimpers to slap the sloppers to top out. Once you are on top of the route, traverse back right to clip the anchors.
The first two bolts are accessed by pulling on small crimps, making V5 moves. Large edges and small jugs help you run it out to the third both that is very awkward to clip because of the nasty small roof you have to fiddle with. Continue using sharp edges to pass more bolts, using good footwork. After clipping the last bolt, head left on two positive, but small, crimpers to slap the sloppers to top out. Once you are on top of the route, traverse back right to clip the anchors.
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