PRINT: Rock Climb Mini Half Dome, Smith Rock

Mini Half Dome

5.8, Sport,

Avg: 1.5 from 15 votes
FA: Unknown, 1960's
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Mud Pile

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This route starts on a steep slab next to the arete and then steps around the arete onto the side of the dome. The crux comes at the third bolt with a few balance steps and smears. Good climb but is awkward to setup for a top rope.

Location

Starts in the pass between Mini Half Dome and Brogan spire. Look for bolts running up the south side of the wall and around the arete.

Protection

Bolts. Anchors are on the north end just over the actual summit.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Repelling down after the complete rodeo of cleaning the route.

Rapping the route, not sure where the bolt line is

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

hovpdx

This is a great short climb but the location of the anchors makes this very awkward to clean your draws and get your rope down. I definitely wouldn't recommend trying to set up a top rope due to rope drag. I wouldn't climb this again unless new anchors were put up. Apr 13, 2015

Mateo San Pedro
OR

Total shit show of a climb unless your partner seconds it and you both rappel. And really makes it not worth the effort. A TR of this route is a horrible idea. Don't do it. Jun 23, 2018

Elijah S
PNW

Terrible anchor setup, the location is rad, I really wanted to love this route but the rock is just ok, the movement is not that fun, challenging or inspiring, and the shit anchors at the top are the icing on the cake. Feb 22, 2020

Leon Wright
Portland, OR

5.8

The climb had a couple of fun moves but quickly turns into a rodeo at the top. Due to the position of the anchor, there is no way to lower back down without leaving gear. The best option here would be to bring your second up from the top while they clean the route then set up an awkward repel over the face. Happy to tick this off the list but will not be doing it again. May 25, 2023