PRINT: Rock Climb Short Circuit, Red Rocks

Short Circuit

5.11b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
FA: Mike Ward & Nick Nordblom - 1988
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (10) Pine Creek… > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Begin just right of Parental Guidance on a long block forming a ledge at the base of the wall. Mantle up to an excellent small TCU placement, then make a difficult move past this to a stance. A crucial #1 Camalot overhead can be placed (height dependent) before pulling up into the undercling allows clipping of the first of five bolts. Continue upwards with a thin high-step/mantle, and finally thin but positive edges to the anchor.

This route previously featured a fixed pin which has been gone for some time now. Because the #1 Camalot is behind a semi-hollow flake and shorter climbers may not even be able to place this cam to begin with, I believe this route *could* be R-rated. If you're tall enough, and if the cam holds, then it's totally G-rated.

Protection

0.3 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 5 bolts, bolted anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Vlad S
San Francisco, CA

5.11c

This route is pretty scary between a very tricky start and some not-so-solid rock up high. At 5'8" I was just barely able to make the #1 placement and then do the very reachy crux move. Also felt a lot harder than 11b. I placed a 0 and 00 C3 off the ground followed by the #1 camalot. After that it's fully bolted. Apr 23, 2014

Dr Williams
AUSTIN, TX

5.11b

Great route! Begins at the top of a rock and moves up a very defined line. It then gets to the first crux at an area on the face that requires some balancing moves and a right foot on a small crescent. I am 5'8" and I could not reach up to the overhanging flake from this crescent alone. So I had to bump the left foot up onto the beginning of the flake. From there, I was able to get to the overhanging flake and move up the face on some tenuous foot holds and crimps, also using the edge of the flake to the right. The rest of the climb is well bolted and moves up to the right and has 2 or 3 additional crux areas, each as difficult as the first crux. The route then moves up to the left and back up to right to the anchors. I felt it was very hard for the grade. I felt this was harder than the other 5.11's in the immediate vicinity. I felt it was a solid 5.11c. Oct 26, 2014

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

As has been said, not that bad if you're tall enough to place the cam and grab the flake and more like 5.12R if you're not. (though it's possible to place bigger gear than a 0 and 00 C3) Overall definitely not as classic as the other routes on the wall. (sandy, short, worse rock, etc) In its current state it's also long overdue for rebolting. Nov 8, 2022