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Routes in Mad Meadows

Alpine Feel V0 4
Amphitheater, The V3 6A
Barnacles V1 5
Break, The V2 5+
Bushmen V4+ 6B+
Crimps, The V5- 6C
Crimpsqueak V8 7B
Dish, The V1 5
Dr. Doom V2 5+
Drugstore Cowboy V3 6A
Flake, The V4 6B
Flounder V2 5+
Foot Fumpkin V4 6B
Hanta Man V9 7C
Heir Apparent V0 4
Hole, The V6 7A
Hueco Route, The V1 5
Jib, The V8 7B
Lamb, The V3 6A
Madvillian V2 5+
No Pain No Grain V5 6C
Ockham's Razor V5 6C
Peephole, The V10-11 8A
Pimpsqueak V9 7C
Pocket Rocket V3 6A
Pocket, The V4 6B PG13
Pruning Shears V1 5
Rail, The V3 6A
Rudder, The V1 5 R
Sail, The V9 7C
Scoop, The V2 5+
Shard, The V5 6C
Spongepad Squarepad V3 6A
Squarepusher V3 6A
Superman V10 7C+
Swordfish V4+ 6B+
Tentacles, The V3 6A
Undercling, The V5- 6C
Wooly Mammoth V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 295 total, 4/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

For me, the beta on this one was having someone to hold the pad underneath you so that you didn't slide down the hill while attempting to start the problem. Climbing it without this assistance was, no kidding, much much harder.
It starts with a visually attractive section of polished crmips, a nice jug, a crimp sidepull, and a cruxy throw into a slot. Use your feet well.
You may find that the climbing above is still stopper, as there isn't much chalk, and the holds and sequence is inobvious. It is a bit heady up there. Aim for the crack on the left, and make sure you have a good spot. There are decent fingerlocks in that thing.
Judging by the chalk, must people don't get past the jug. I'd give it more stars, but it kinds of sucks to work on this problem unless you have someone to help out with the pad, and the top out is really not all that fun. Also, it's fairly temperature dependent, because it's so slick. Do it if you've done basically everything else in Mad Meadows. Most areas this would be a good climb. In the pantheon that is Mad Meadows, it feels kind of turdy.

Location

Just left of Peephole, across the trail from the Hueco Room.

Protection

One or two pads. To start, have someone standing at the base of the pad to keep it from sliding down. Once at the top out, have them reposition, as it trends left to topoout.

Photos

Eli Staggs
Olympia, WA
Eli Staggs   Olympia, WA
Awesome route. Bunchy feet so it helps to be short! Jul 13, 2016